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Walther PPK/S Reviews

Discuss and review everything about the pistol, from the original 1911, to the modern compact semi-automatic.

Postby SittingMooseShaman » Tue Jan 25, 2011 11:52 pm

... It looks as if the hammer release is connected to the trigger bar and uses the tension from the trigger bar spring...

jeeze, the tolerances are tight... connected to the sear, hammer block and cocking piece... woo... hell, enny one of these bein' worn.

It looks to be part of the safety mech. that releases the hammer from the main spring as it is held down by the safety drum and conveys the 'safe' mode to the entire trigger/hammer assembly...

So-oo...

However, being not a smith- I can only guess @ the problem/solution.

I'm still looking though...
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Postby druryj » Wed Jan 26, 2011 4:24 pm

Well, if it helps any, my hammer release is positoned as shown on exploded diagrams but is just "floating" - I really like my PPK/S and want it to run right again. I don't know a local smith who is any good with these...(scratching head in confusion...)
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Postby SittingMooseShaman » Thu Jan 27, 2011 1:21 pm

# 1:



... clear the weapon of magazine and any chambered cartridges...

Does the safety function properly?



Its normal for the hammer release to 'float' freely-

it will lock when the hammer is cocked(with the slide removed)



With the pistol empty- cycle it with your hands as though you were firing it(dry-firing it like this won't harm it)

Make sure it's empty & pointed in a safe direction:

go thru the motions- "chamber" a round; pull trigger, and cycle the slide w/your other hand.



Do this for the number of rounds in a magazine- 'firing'

and cycling it each time: To try having the pistol repeat the malfunction.



This is how I found that if the hammer release is somehow held down and ever so slightly vibrates- the hammer goes from cocked to double-action position- it as well, simultaneously releases the trigger forward into DA position.



Check to make sure the safety thumb-latch and drum are tightly connected... Sometimes the cycling action on my gun would cause the safety latch to rotate slightly towards the "down" position and screw-up my next shot... I pulled the whole slide apart and cleaned the entire thing out...

same w/the lock workings.

It then worked fine.



These guns are highly affected by fouling. The slightest build-up in the wrong place...

Sorta is a "carry a lot-fire a little" pistol...

... a "detectives" gun.



... just ta show ya & get a feel and actually see the lock-work in action- it's quite symphonic- You'll be able to understand how this intricate design works and how Walthers' been able to drive smiths nuts...



With the slide removed- Carefully ease the trigger forward so all spring tension is released & then remove grips.

Keep your finger on the trigger-bar... it'll pop out.

I'll continue this- too long typing and the server will cut me off
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Postby SittingMooseShaman » Thu Jan 27, 2011 2:45 pm

#2:



... a piece of tape will hold it.



Cock the trigger until it's fully locked.

The hammer release should be firmly locked

in an upward manner- the tip almost even w/the ejector.

Hold the gun w/your shooting hand in a shoot position- then w/your other hand put your index finger firmly on the hammer release.

With your gun hand pull the hammer back ~ a quarter inch down to the framedo not release the hammer- it is now free and in the 'safe' mode. carefully let it forward to rest against the hammer block ... still keeping pressure on the hammer release- the hammer release will drop flush to the frame...



Now if any parts within the hammer release group are worn-

they'll probably show it here- and release the trigger forward into DA position.



Keep the hammer release down- You'll find that the hammer moves freely- as it is in the 'safe' mode. look for any parts that seem out of position or lose.



Now with your index finger, still keeping pressure on the hammer release- gently begin to raise your finger ~ a 16th " the trigger should release in to DA position.



if the trigger releases to DA position @ anytime

before you ease pressure... some thing between it and the trigger bar is worn...



You can see how the parts interact as you carefully cock and 'fire' the gun in this stripped condition...

Be careful, as the hammer is under spring pressure- let your thumb keep it from slamming the frame...



The only other part which could put the gun into DA position is as I expressed earlier... is the safetys' drum catching on the hammer release... or a little fouling if the gun is being fired often.



I hope this helps ya out a bit...



I'll piddle around w/mine.... er, that don't sound too good...

to see if I can come up w/something different...



Hope it gits fixed easy & cheaply.
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Postby druryj » Thu Jan 27, 2011 3:26 pm

Okay, Moose. I will get home and give this a try...and we'll see what I find out. Appreciate the help and effort.
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Postby druryj » Sun Jan 30, 2011 8:59 am

Did everything exactly as you said below and made sure she is surgically clean. I couldn't find anything obvious so I put it back together carefully and will be off to test fire in the next day or two. I will report back here after test firing, thanks again.
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Postby druryj » Tue Feb 01, 2011 6:24 pm

STiILL didn't feel when right dryfiring, so I detaild stripped the upper AGAIN and checked everything carefully. Found the extractor plunger (#3) was not quite flush (at 90 degrees to) the extractor. Maybe this was making it too tight against the safety detent and causing it to jump out, letting the hammer follow the slide foward. Everything sems to be a lot smoother now in dry fire mode anyway so now we need to get to the range and see. Will keep you posted.
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Postby SittingMooseShaman » Tue Feb 01, 2011 6:36 pm

... ok, kudos. it's just gotta work...
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Postby jakeintexas » Fri Feb 11, 2011 8:09 pm

Another three boxes of .95 grain fmj through my .380 PPK/S without a single problem. My only complaint is the sharp edge on the beaver tail. Leaves a nice bloody little cut on the web between my fat little thumb and index finger. Next paycheck I plan to visit my local gunsmith and see what he can do as a smooth and polish on it. I know others have had problems but after about ten boxes through my gun I have nothing but good things to say. Thanks for the advice on polishing the followers. Have not had a failure to feed since on three different mags.
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Postby RebelRacing80 » Sun Feb 13, 2011 11:01 pm

i have this in the .380 and love it. i do also have the problem with the slide cutting my hand after several rounds. love the gun. never had problems with it. daily ccw.
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